The collected wine-tastings & wine-ramblings of one who prefers to describe wines with metaphors, not percentages

Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay 2008 review

A bottle of Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay: simple typographic label

You’ve suffered (haven’t you) through glasses of chardonnay that have all the subtlety of a back massage from Abu Hamza? Glasses of chardonnay, in other words, that purport to be dealing out a luxurious experience, but are actually a savage, raking assault.

Well, this chardonnay is more like a back massage from the BFG. Powerful, sure — but also surprisingly sensitive, surprisingly deft.

Yes, this wine is big. Big enough to make me mutter ‘Boosh!’ under my breath at my first gobful. It’s enormously rich, peachy, full of straw and opulent summer.

But for all its boosh, this wine has a damn impressive balance to it. You can swill it round like mouthwash (if you must), keep it in there for 5 seconds, 10 seconds — and it can take it. Big but not domineering or aggressive.

It’s like watching a prize bullock nimbly walk across a tightrope. A mesmerising combination of weight and balance.

Which is pretty awe-inspiring, even if you aren’t really into that whole bullock-circus thing.

Rating ★★★★ (4 stars)
ABV 13.5%
Price £15.50 from The Wine Society
I doff my hat to the excellent Rebecca Mosley, who supplied me with the BFG simile, above.

3 Comments to Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay 2008 review

  1. Rib's Gravatar Rib
    June 10, 2011 at 11:38 pm | Permalink

    “savage, raking assault” is my new favourite phrase. Brilliant.
    Ahhh, shucks, un-doff your hat, it wasn’t doff-worthy.

  2. June 11, 2011 at 11:46 am | Permalink

    i read that as “buttock circus thing”; got worried that Oxford was getting too raunchy!

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