I mentioned Hampshire Gunpowder Gin before, en passant. But it deserves a proper review, I think. One of the things I want to do this year is — in a spasmodic bout of localism — to write more about drink and food from my surrounds, meaning Hampshire, Sussex and thereabouts (where I live) and perhaps also London (where I work). So what better, SEO-friendly means by which to do this than by reviewing something that’s actually got the (key)words Hampshire Gin in the name?
Winchester Distillery — the place behind this bottle — is about 20 minutes’ drive from my house (and a very nice drive it is, too, zipping down the A272 in one’s cheap 80s Porsche with dodgy electrics. Until one gets stuck behind a tractor.) They produce a range of gins, some of which I’ve still to taste, and this is the Navy Strength one. So called because of its hoofing 57% ABV. You can slosh this all over your gunpowder, safe in the knowledge that it’ll still ignite, thanks to the high alcohol content. Worth bearing in mind next fireworks night, eh?
But enough preamble. How does the blighter taste?
Hampshire Gunpowder Gin and Tonic
If you were expecting something aggressive and butch, you should reconsider your lazy naval stereotypes and hang your head in shame. Hampshire Gunpowder Gin is rather smooth and has a slightly sweet, herbaceous intro. A clean shaven sailor with immaculate personal hygiene who phones his grannie every weekend. While there’s certainly juniper around, it’s much less pronounced than in a down-the-line juniper-led spirit like regular Tanqueray. There’s an appealing drag of peaty bitterness across the back of the tongue, which I think is the influence of the tea, and this handsomely balances that initial dab of sweetness.
This is a fine gin for your G&T.
Fever Tree Light Tonic (as per usual) with lemon — or try rosemary, if you like, you crazy cat.
Hampshire Gunpowder Gin Martini
I tasted this two ways: firstly in a classic Old Parn martini, and secondly in a Duke’s Hotel style martini (freezer-cold gin simply poured over a smidge of vermouth swirled around an ice-cold glass — no icecubes involved). My vermouth at the moment is Dolin.
In both Martini styles you again notice the drink’s fullness and richness. I found it somewhat overheated — a little full-on — especially in the Duke’s martini where it leaves a fiery wake on your palate. As with the G&T, there’s an initial subtle impression of sweetness, but in the martini you really notice the smokiness and bitterness of the tea.
The flavours are rather lovely, but even with the mild dilution of the ice-melt of the Parn Martini, it sizzles and tingles all over the place. While it’s by no means shabby, I’d say this gin isn’t as well suited to the martini as the G&T.
Classic Martini with twist (olive works much less well). Try allowing more dilution than you would normally to tone down the burn.
Hampshire Gunpowder Gin Negroni
I think this works very well in a Negroni. With the classic mix (equal parts of gin, Campari and red vermouth), you get an excellent balance, with the Gunpowder Gin standing up to those punchy flavours rather admirably. Some more diffident gins need help fighting their corner against Campari, but this one can fend for itself, thank you very much. I love the rooty, deep flavours and the smokiness the gin brings to the mix.
So there you go. A commendable boozy representative of my home county. Here’s a few stockists of Hampshire Navy Strength Gunpowder Gin, should you wish to avail yourself. A bottle is 70cl; all prices correct at time of writing.