You see, Dà Mhìle’s Seaweed Gin is exceptionally good. Your schnoz tells you it’s going to be rather special as soon as you sniff the newly uncorked bottle. And your schnoz isn’t wrong. Your schnoz is so seldom wrong. Dependable schnoz.
I think this may be the freshest, most mouth-watering smell I can remember getting off a gin. It’s definitely up there with the best. All those familiar, delicious ginny touchstones you expect, but an extra dimension of— of what? Sea air? I don’t even know. It’s like the ephemeral scent of a new perfume on the lover you haven’t seen for a month.
The gins that I enjoy most, I think, are those that combine an unmistakable ginishness (plenty of juniper, dry, solid, punchy) with something subtly new or unexpected. Emphasis, there, should be on subtlety, though. The strong, classic foundation is the dominant element. Gimmicky gins might or might not be worthwhile, but even the really good ones I’d reach for only as an occasional dalliance, not as a staple.
This is not a gimmicky gin; it is a Gin With Interest. It’s made in West Wales, alongside a range of other gins and spirits I’m now extremely keen to try. Here’s why.
Dà Mhìle Seaweed Gin & Tonic
Fantastic. As I say, above, this still tastes like an honest G&T, not some funky nonsense. It has great heft and a full, savoury flavour. There’s a fresh, a green quality to it. I don’t know what seaweed actually tastes like (seaweed in a Chinese restaurant, sure, but that’s kale, innit?) but if it’s anything like this, I’m jumping into the car and caning it down to the beach at West Wittering — rules on social distancing be damned — to pick some up for supper.
There’s still plentiful juniper, plus citrus, coriander and the gang. Like I said, this is not an out-and-out weird gin. The freshness and delicate salinity is layered gently atop those familiar ol’ ginny flavours.
It is delicious.
G&T Verdict
Serving-wise, I’d go with lemon here, and Fever Tree Light tonic.
Dà Mhìle Seaweed Gin Martini
This gin works excellently both in a classic martini and in a Duke’s-style — as it has the elegance and poise to carry off the latter without tasting overly boozy and fiery. In both contexts — especially Duke’s style — you get a distinctive minty, peppery zing to accompany that deliciously savoury first impression in your gob. Whereas the opening salvo of flavour is quite herbaceous, the taste broadens and deepens as the juniper and pepper step in. I love the subtle saltiness, for I am a salt-hound as well as a gin-hound.
So, yeah, are you following me? Do I need to spell it out for you? This is an absolutely bloody delicious drink. One of the nicest martinis I’ve made. And I’ve made a lot of sodding good martinis, let me tell you. The martini is my quintessential appetiser cocktail and the saline, savoury quality of Da Mhile Seaweed Gin is perfect in that pre-dinner context. And also post-dinner. Hell, don’t bother with the wine; give it to me during dinner too. On a drip.
Martini Verdict
This is an exceptionally versatile Martini gin. I’d urge you to serve it with a twist rather than olive, as I think that’s a much more auspicious flavour combo, but feel free to try both. You can go pretty dry with this gin if that’s your bag.
Dà Mhìle Seaweed Gin Negroni
I can’t bear to lie to you: I don’t know. This gin is too damn good in a martini to waste on a Negroni. And I say that, you realise, as a man who adores Negronis. But when you have a gin with deliciously balanced subtleties like this, you don’t slosh Campari into it. Sorry.
Come at me in the comments if you want. I can take it.
So, in summary…
In case you hadn’t gathered, this gin gets top marks. I had a ridiculous cupboard of gins even before all you wankers started stockpiling. But while I was still finishing the first bottle of Dà Mhìle, I went online and ordered two more.
You should do similar. Given the current dismal goings on, I’d suggest you order direct from the distillery and support them directly. They’re offering free postage, and a 70cl bottle of this will set you back £34. You can also get it from Master of Malt for £29.95, though without the free shipping unless you’re spending £99+.