Le Fraghe. A wee blend of two grapes: corvina and rondinella. From somewhere between Venice and Milan.
And if it has Venice’s sunset-laced romance, it also has Milan’s fashionable, metropolitan elegance.
It’s gentle, toned, soft, pristine.
And it’s rather beautiful.
In your mouth, it’s full — yet light, elegant. There’s some subdued tannin; some savouriness, some meaty depth, some spice, liquorice. And a sustained, beautifully controlled diminuendo to finish.
Stick your snout in there and inhale the cooked (but not jammy) red fruits of a summer pudding.
I really enjoyed La Fraghe. It’s a wine that lights up all the buzzers on the pinball table of your palate. And I’d say it’s pretty damn good value for under a tenner.
Crack it out with food — nothing too honky or flavoursome, mind; probably lighter meats, fish — simple, honest ingredients, please; simply, honestly cooked …
… and (pooph!) you’re right there between Venice and Milan.
Price £8.95 from The Wine Society