I’ve written before about my lonely love of half bottles. Below are my brief impressions of three French wines, all available in half bottles from The Wine Society.
The Society’s White Burgundy
Planted resolutely at the dry, pure, stony end of the (vibrant) chardonnay spectrum, this is delicious, appetising. Aromatically discrete, yes, with a bracing dose of lemon-rind bitterness. Finding small fault, it’s just a touch thin, a touch watery. But at the price, I feel almost churlish saying so.
Price £4.50 from The Wine Society
The Society’s Crozes Hermitages
Roughish, somewhat stalky and austere. There’s a fair bit of bitterness and tannin — and a certain coaly quality, like that stuffy-headed smell I remember from my grannie’s coal scuttle.
In the gob it’s a little lighter than I’d expected, with some red fruit to counteract all the gruffness. There’s also a bit of orange in there — orange oil/essence, not juicy, fresh orange.
Fine for a midweek slurp, though a little rough and unbalanced.
Price £5.25 from The Wine Society (but no longer on the site)
The Society’s Chablis
Slate and peach and cream. It fills your nose like the smell of summer rain. In the gob, it’s appealingly plump — though with a fair old dose of acidity. A good bit of citrus there.
Proper dry stuff. Nice. With simple, unadorned seafood, this would be delightful. My mouth’s watering already.
Price £5.95 from The Wine Society