… will awaked your tastebuds with a zap like a shot from Commander Keen’s raygun
By way of this week’s Sunday quickie, I lugged my laptop down to the Summertown Wine Cafe (one of the places I’ll especially miss, when I haul my skinny white ass out of Oxford, next month) — and snaffled me a glass of Three Choirs ‘Winchcombe Downs’.
And I liked it. A good acidic gobful, zesty and fresh as you like. Bish! It’s bracing, fresh, summery. Really awakens ye tastebuds with a zap. Like a shot from Commander Keen’s raygun.
It also gets kudos for being made from a mixture of grapes that includes both Phoenix and Madeleine Angevine. A few points in your grape varietals spotters’ guide for them, surely?
Getting through more than a glass of this without some form of snack/food would be a challenge — because of all that acid. So consider yourself warned.
★★★ 3 stars (good)
Phoenix, Madeleine Angevine & Huxelrebe
£9.45 from Jascots
; £10.95 from Summertown Wine Cafe
(no online ordering)
… is like inhaling the contents of a bouquet garni. In a damned good way, let me add
Crack this bad boy open and it’s like you just inhaled the contents of your herb rack.
Sometimes a wino will say that something smells herby — then you smell it yourself and go, ‘Eh? Wot? Smells o’ bloody wine to me!’ So let me assure you: this really does smell herby. It’s actually a lot like walking into one of those marvellously crowded little shops that sell every oriental spice, herb and seasoning you could imagine (and several you couldn’t). It even has that same slight headachey mustiness to it.
But, c’mon. Get it in your gob, why don’t you?
Because it’s good. It’s very good. The depth of the herbs is there, yeah, along with a sizzling tingle of pepper. Then the spices come through: cinnamon, nutmeg and the gang.
So far you’d be forgiven for thinking it all sounds pretty gruff.
… But it’s actually remarkably soft and accessible. Fresh (unbaked), with a fair bit of fruit — cooked plum, red fruits, blueberry — as well as wood, chocolate, aniseed on the finish. Rather goddarn rounded, don’t y’know?
I’d buy this like a fucking shot. I mean, look at the price. It’s full, generous, balanced, long, rewarding.
Very good indeed.
★★★★ (4 stars)
£8.60 from Summertown Wine Cafe
(buy in store only), £9.25 from Bakers & Larners